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When curating a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred establishments. But, tucked near the top among these culinary titans is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has made the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” states the family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble place achieving such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its former feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.